~A journey walked by the heart~
Not a sleeper, 12 hours in a regular seat. A record of the overnight train to Chiang Mai

Not a sleeper, 12 hours in a regular seat. A record of the overnight train to Chiang Mai

story, experience, philosophy
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5 min to read

From Ayutthaya Station at midnight, 12 hours in a regular seat under fluorescent lights that never went out. After fighting insects and making it through a sleepless night, what awaited was the sense of accomplishment in Chiang Mai and a quiet resolve to reforge myself.

Around 11 PM yesterday, I took a taxi toward Ayutthaya Station.

When I arrived at the station, there were a lot of travelers from Europe. Some were families, some groups of friends. But there wasn't a single solo traveler — it was just me. What surprised me was how many families were backpacking.

Even small daughters were carrying backpacks and traveling by train — quite a grueling trip to be doing together. I honestly thought it was amazing. My family would never do that. Thinking about it made me realize I hadn't been influenced by my family; I carved out what I wanted to do on my own. I'm a little proud of that.

Late-night platform, train No. 9

I waited about 30 minutes at Ayutthaya Station until the train arrived. As a signal that the train was about to come, the station attendant rang a really loud bell. I was sitting right in front of it, so it blasted into my ears. Then I walked to the platform and when I asked the attendant, 'Where is No. 9?' he told me, 'It's here.'

Almost all the Europeans were in sleeper cars. But I, maybe because I bought the ticket two days before, had a regular seat. And I was alone. Isn't that great? My first 12-hour train trip. I'd never experienced anything like it in my life, so I was really curious what it would be like and full of excitement.

Fluorescent lights, insects, and a sleepless night

I actually boarded. I was worried there might be luggage on the upper shelf, but since no one was in my seat I could put my backpack there. I showed my ticket on my phone to the attendant and that was it. At the next station a girl sat next to me. Not everyone was going all the way to the terminal Chiang Mai — the train stopped about five to eight times along the way.

I couldn't fall asleep until around 2 AM, and I finally slept at about 2:30. I woke up at 6. I woke up just as the girl next to me was getting off. Then I went back to sleep, and finally got up at 8. I went to the restroom a few times and rehydrated with Pocari Sweat.

Still, it all went by quickly. Even though it was 12 hours, discovering that I could sleep on a train was a big revelation. But the environment is pretty tough. The fluorescent lights are on constantly, so it never gets dark like on a plane. The windows are always open, so a ton of insects come in, landing on my knees and all over — they even woke me up.

The Thai people were sleeping normally without eye masks, and I had nothing but respect. I was fully equipped — a face mask, an eye mask, and sound-isolating earphones playing classical music at a low volume — and only then could I sleep. It wasn't quality sleep, but for some reason when I woke up I felt refreshed and energetic.

At the points where trains connect, you can see outside, so I was taking photos. It was really scary because if you stuck your head out too far you would definitely hit something.

In any case, the scenery viewed from the train was really beautiful. Before I knew it, it was noon and we arrived in Chiang Mai.

Chiang Mai Station — the sense of achievement after 12 hours

When I got off the platform, I really felt a huge sense of accomplishment. I had overcome a 12-hour train ride — it felt refreshing.

I immediately called a motorbike taxi and checked into the hotel. Even though I arrived at 12:30, I was able to check in, so I thought it was a really good place. This hostel had large beds and only three beds in each room. The receptionist guided me very politely and was extremely kind.

They required a 1000 baht deposit, and since I didn't have that left in my wallet, I decided to go to the bank first.

I withdrew 11,000 baht and found a shop selling postcards along the way. I bought one postcard to send to a friend. Incidentally, there was a stall selling omelets for 50 baht, so I had my lunch there.

I want to blend in with the locals

There were a lot of Westerners in Chiang Mai. Walking around, I suddenly felt something.

For me, being in places that don't feel touristy — environments where only local people are around — is the most comfortable. I can't put the reason into words well, but the sensation of literally blending into the atmosphere of the place gives me the greatest sense of happiness.

Meeting my roommate

As I unpacked in the room, my roommate came in. I shook hands with him; he was from Canada. I was extremely tired and my social battery was almost depleted, so although I smiled and talked, it was only the bare minimum.

The hostel's khao man gai

I had planned to go to a shopping center to buy sportswear at New Balance and lotion at Muji, but I was so tired that I thought, 'I'll just take a 30-minute nap,' and when I woke up 3 hours and 30 minutes had passed. I woke up with only 30 minutes until an online meeting. I gave up on shopping for the day.

After the meeting, I ordered pad thai and finished the remaining work. While I was doing that, my roommate and another Canadian came over and we chatted a bit. They said India had been the best place they'd traveled to, talked about what kind of work they usually do, and about their hobbies. They were infrastructure project managers and facility designers.

I thought they were really cool. But my social battery was still gone, so I couldn't ask many questions and stayed passive. Well, that happens. When you're tired, you have to recharge.

What I want to do in Chiang Mai

So I'm writing this diary. In Chiang Mai I do want to feel nature and visit various places, but the thing I most want to do is "build up physical and mental strength."

What I'll do for that: first, write down my values and what I want to do in a notebook and organize them. Then, go to the gym every day and train my body. Get abs and thoroughly sculpt my body. Nothing goes well without hardship. You have to create the environment yourself to go to the next stage.

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Kota Ishihara

Graduate of the Department of Life Science at Kinki University. After graduation, studied web production independently and became a freelancer in Oct 2022. Since then, has been traveling across Europe and Southeast Asia, meeting people and exploring cultures. Dreams of moving to Europe, building a creative multinational company, and traveling the world as a pilot. Can’t live without music and fashion. Tough critic of earphones. Respects Taro Okamoto.

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