Cards are not accepted. Cash only.
I found that written at the edge of the menu after I'd already finished the meal. There wasn't a single lari in my wallet. On my third day in Tbilisi, this was the biggest mishap.
The grandmothers' diner, Mapshalia
Mapshalia, a local restaurant recommended by Konstantin. I'd been curious about it for a long time, but it was always too crowded to get in.
Today, it was finally not crowded.
Many of the staff were elderly women, giving it a thoroughly local atmosphere. Looking at the menu, the prices weren't high at all. If anything, they were cheap.
Kharcho soup, water, three Cheese Dumplings, and Khachapuri Imeruli. To be able to eat something this delicious at this price can only be described as wonderful.
Actually, the portions were so large I couldn't finish. I even had to get a takeout bag.
Someone who looked Russian was sitting at the same table as me. He had also ordered soup, water, and juice, and was staring intently at a map.
When I ordered in Russian, he kept looking at me. He might have been surprised.
I wanted to talk to him. But I didn't have the courage.
I'll try to be bolder and speak to him. Chances like this don't come often. I have nothing to lose.
Leave my passport and run to the bank
I had been wondering about one thing while I was eating: I wondered whether this place accepted credit cards.
The Russian at my table paid in lari. I had a bad feeling.
I finished eating worriedly and went to pay. Sure enough, it said that cards are not accepted and it's cash only.
I told them in Russian that I didn't have lari right now and needed to go to the bank.
A young staff member nearby asked if I had a Georgian internet bank account. No, I didn't.
I left my passport and decided to go to the bank. They told me where it was, but I got lost on the way, and in the end that staff member guided me to the bank. She even helped me with the withdrawal.
To be honest, while eating I had vaguely imagined this scenario — maybe the young staff member would guide me to the bank. That is exactly what happened. Normally things don't turn out the way I imagine, so I was genuinely surprised.
I withdrew 20 lari from the bank, and on the way back to the restaurant with the staff member we talked about the place. "This place is very famous, right?" "It's really local, and because the prices aren't high it's very popular."
When we arrived back, I paid 16 lari in exchange for my passport. The change was 4 lari, in coins.
There is hyperinflation right now, and the exchange rate between yen and lari has become terrible. I can't exactly call it cheap. I guess I came at an awkward time. But this is also an experience and part of life. I just have to enjoy it.
I withdrew about 180 lari from the bank again and went home.
A night of sweet Georgian wine
I ate dinner and did some programming. I also drank wine today.
The wine I bought at the supermarket yesterday was called Badagoni. The variety is Alazani Valley. It's a white wine, but very sweet.
It really feels like a Georgian wine, I thought.
The basement room doesn't let much light in, so I get sleepy even during the day. Today I ended up taking a nap for about two hours.
But I wrote in my journal and did some programming while drinking sweet wine. Tbilisi's night quietly deepened.
